BECOMING gluten & allergen-free savvy

Although currently a niche market, demand for gluten- and allergen-free baked products continues to rise.


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waffles with kiwi and strawberries

Food allergies are no joke. Ask any of the 30,000 people who visit emergency rooms every year because of an allergic reaction to food. (Food Allergy Initiative [FAI], New York.)

According to FAI, 11 million Americans have food allergies in varying degrees of severity. Although any food can cause an allergic response, 90 percent of all reactions are caused by eight allergens: peanuts, tree nuts, eggs, milk, fish, shellfish, soy and wheat.

Gluten intolerance or celiac disease actually is not a food allergy, but a lifelong autoimmune condition that affects genetically susceptible individuals. In addition to gastrointestinal distress and other physical responses, it is a serious condition that, if ignored or left untreated, can cause an increased risk of associated disorders, both nutritional and immune related.

The National Institutes of Health estimate one in 133 people have celiac disease, with 97 percent remaining undiagnosed. Euromonitor estimates an even higher percentage of consumers have this condition, although marketplace potential is much greater than those numbers would suggest. According to the Packaged Facts report “Gluten Free Foods in the U.S.,” the number of known celiacs will reportedly increase worldwide by a factor of 10 during the next few years. The group listed gluten-free food sales of almost $700 million in 2006 with growth projections indicating possible sales of $1.7 billion by 2010. Celiac consumers don't contribute exclusively to these sales figures. Many parents of autistic children follow a gluten-free diet regimen based on new research that suggests a gluten-free, casein-free diet can help relieve the childrens' symptoms.

Traditional baked products rely on many foods listed as allergens, especially wheat-based flour, the trigger for celiacs. This poses a challenge for both the ingredient and production sides of the plant.

The challenge

Gluten- and allergen-free bakers typically must select from a broad range of ingredients to achieve the same level of functionality as in conventional formulas. In gluten-free baking, these ingredients need to replace the attributes gluten lends to baked foods. While gluten is a protein, not just any protein substitution works for a celiac consumer. For example, supplementing gluten-free breads with high lactose-content powders is not suitable for celiacs with significant damage to their intestinal villi. This population could be intolerant to lactose because of the absence of the lactase enzyme, generated by the villi.

basket of muffins and bagels

ConAgra’s gluten-free flour helps make baked products accessible to those with celiac disease.

The gluten matrix provides dough with extensibility, resistance to stretch, mixing tolerance and gas-holding ability. This matrix encloses the starch granules and fiber fragments, acting as the structural protein in bread. Its absence often produces a liquid bread batter rather than dough. When formulating with gluten-free flour, moisture content is critical. If baking an item that is expected to rise and the dough is dry, it will be too dense. If the dough is too moist, the rise will be good, but will collapse during baking. The common complaint with gluten-free baked products, such as cookies or sandwich bread, is they crumble easily; therefore, binding properties, as well as textural qualities, are vitally important in ingredient selection. Gluten-free formulators often turn to egg whites or yolks for binding, foaming and other functional properties.

And not surprisingly, when bakers look to alternative flours for gluten-free formulating, the protein content of the replacement flour becomes a key factor. Reportedly, the flour's protein level should be near the 10 percent typical of wheat flour, plus or minus a few points, depending on whether the end product is bread, pastry or pasta. Most wheat flour alternatives top out at about 5 percent.

Flour by any other name

In gluten-free formulating, a “one for one” substitution is not possible. Formulators are fortunate, however, in today's newer, more allergen-friendly environment to have multiple choices for flour blends and other important ingredients. Flour blends can include fava beans, soy, rice, potatoes, buckwheat or sorghum. In early 2006, Corn Products International Inc., Westchester, Ill., introduced Expandex modified tapioca starch for use in gluten-free bakery operations. This starch offers unique expansion properties to help create structure and texture similar to its wheat counterpart, expand the crumb and keep products moist. With a tapioca root base, this flour alternative offers a clean flavor profile.

A variety of soy flours tout low cost and functional advantages. In 2006, Cargill Texturizing Solutions, Cedar Rapids, Iowa, launched Prolia, defatted soy flour. In bakery products, defatted soy flour contributes to a better crumb structure and improved dough machineability, making the dough more elastic. It also increases water absorption and retention for increased shelf life.

Nexcel Natural Ingredients, a division of Spectrum Foods Inc., Springfield, Ill., offers formulators NexSoy Extra High Fiber Low-Fat Soy Flour. This product is designed to replace flour at levels of 20 percent to 25 percent in cookies, pizza doughs or muffins. According to Rob Kirby, president of Nexcel, the company uses natural, chemical-free processing, creating flour without the green, grassy or beany flavors associated with other types of soy flour. “It is more natural tasting,” he says.

At the 2007 International Baking Industry Expo (IBIE), ConAgra Mills, Omaha, Neb., introduced Ancient Grains, a line of flours, multi-grain blends and seed inclusions. One of its flour blends qualifies as gluten-free and is milled in a facility certified by the Gluten-Free Certification Organization. This ancient flour blend is milled from amaranth, quinoa, sorghum, millet and teff.

“Flavor to cost, this is a great ingredient,” says Elizabeth Arndt, manager, research and development, ConAgra Mills. “One of the characteristics of a whole grain product is earthiness and a slight sweetness. This ingredient or flour blend offers all the benefits of whole grain, plus the exotic appeal of a very unique set of grains.” Furthermore, these ancient grains offer a protein level similar in range to whole wheat flour, offering versatility in a wide variety of baked products, such as cookies, bread, pancakes or muffins.

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