While all grains are ancient in origin, common grains are genetically younger than many alternative grains, having been bred to meet the demands of the food industry. “When breeders breed new wheat, they cross two varieties and select the best from that offspring,” says Rene Featherstone, marketing, Lentz Spelt Farms, Marlin, Wash. “In the selection process, breeders follow the direction of the wheat industry, which wants to please its key customer: the makers of white flour and white bread.” But not all grains have been bred for white flour. Many so called “forgotten” or ancient grains are likely to still exist in their original form and possess more minerals and antioxidants. These grains include Khorasan wheat, spelt, amaranth, buckwheat, millet, quinoa, sorghum and teff, among others. They also are known as alternative grains as they offer an alternative to common wheat.

Much like we need several different vegetables in our diets to gain certain nutrients, we also need a variety of grains, says Cynthia Harriman, director, food and nutrition strategies, Whole Grains Council, (WGC), Boston. “People say ‘eat more whole grains,’ and we run out and eat more whole wheat. Then we're not getting the range of different nutrients that comes from different grains. So, making these grains more widely available and putting them in more foods is great for health.” Consumers who eat whole grains can reduce their risk of heart disease by 25 percent to 36 percent, reduce their risk of type 2 diabetes by 21 percent to 27 percent, reduce their risk of digestive cancers by 21 percent to 43 percent and reduce their risk of stroke by 37 percent, according to WGC.

“Whole grains, or foods made from them, contain all the essential parts and naturally-occurring nutrients of the entire grain seed,” Harriman adds. Refined white flour is missing the bran and germ along with many of the essential nutrients found in flours made from ancient grains. As more attention is paid to whole grains, and manufacturers look to alternative grains to add market value, more consumers are becoming aware of their existence.

Function

Each grain has different properties and functions differently, which means bakers can't simply swap one for another. Amaranth, quinoa, buckwheat and teff, for example, are closer to complete proteins than other grains. “Quinoa has a distinctive flavor and comparably more protein, while teff, which is a tiny round seed, is notable for its calcium and magnesium content,” says Elizabeth Arndt, Ph.D., manager of research and development, ConAgra Mills, Omaha, Neb.

Quinoa, buckwheat and amaranth are not cereal grains botanically, but are known as pseudo grains. “The FDA, the WGC and the American Association of Cereal Grains all agree they are grandfathered into the grains category because they have a similar nutrition profile and similar uses in cooking and baking,” Harriman says.

Amaranth and quinoa have a grassy flavor that can be unfavorable in sweet baked products. Such grains work better in savory applications or can be successful when combined with a flavor that can bridge the sweet and savory gap, such as ginger, says Susan Miller, director, baking education center, King Arthur Flour, Norwich, Vt. Barley also works well in savory applications. While barley does not contain gluten, it swells, absorbs moisture and coheres the way oats do, and so it can be used successfully in pie crusts and quick bread formulations.

“I would caution bakers to look at these alternative grain flours as additions to an existing dough rather than a replacement for wheat flour in a dough. They don't have the strength to make a loaf rise as wheat flour does,” Miller says. As bakers increase the portion of ancient grains in bread, loaves will become denser and require more moisture because they absorb more water than traditional white flour, and mixing times may need to be decreased.

“Ancient grain flours are often used to replace 10 percent to 20 percent of the existing grain ingredients in baked products. For customers developing products for gluten-sensitive consumers, amaranth, quinoa, millet, sorghum and teff flours, and ConAgra's five-grain blend are gluten-free and can be used as the primary grain ingredients in gluten-free baked applications,” Arndt says.

“Whole grains have the capacity to add a lot of flavor and interest to a line of baked products. It will to require years of people experimenting and seeing what works and what doesn't work,” Miller says.

Spelt

Two markets exist for spelt in the United States. In the East, spelt is used mainly as a component of multigrain products. In the West, spelt is used for pure spelt bread. “Bread baking is a challenge because spelt has to have really good gluten or it doesn't bake as well as a stand alone flour. Whereas, in the East, spelt quality does not have to be as high because it is mixed with other flours,” Featherstone says.

Spelt is encased in a hull. When industrial agriculture started, hulled grains were ignored in favor of wheat, which is free-threshing. Spelt contains higher levels of protein, soluble dietary fiber and minerals than modern wheat. The bran in the kernel's outer layer provides this nutrition, but also makes spelt challenging to bake with. Compared to wheat, spelt has a much shorter mix time. “Once you reach the peak where you start to overmix, spelt drops off quickly. Wheat declines more slowly,” Featherstone says. Because it is a specialty crop, mix time for spelt can vary.

“Spelt should have a mix time of four to five minutes, or maybe six minutes for a really good spelt, but some commercial spelts have a mix time of less than two minutes. So, it is important to know where your spelt is coming from and that it has baking quality,” he adds. Spelt is easier to digest than wheat and many people with wheat allergies can eat spelt without a problem. Spelt, however, contains gluten and therefore is not advised for people with gluten intolerance or celiac disease. For more on spelt, Featherstone suggests the book, Specialty Grains for Food and Feed, published by the American Association of Cereal Chemists.