Working with milk replacements in baking formulas
Cutting costs and avoiding allergens are the primary motives for replacing skim milk powder in baked products. Learn what options are available for your formulas.
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| Dairy flavors provide the desired flavor profiles
without the problems associated with dairy protein or lactose
intolerance allergens. |
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| Use whey protein to replace SMP in baked products, such as donuts. |
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Milk is not an integral part of every baked product’s
formulation; however, for products that do require milk, finding a
replacement can be a challenge. Bakers replace, or at least greatly
reduce, skim milk powder (SMP) in baked products for basically two
reasons: cost and allergens. Regardless of the reason, the same
challenges arise.
Instead of eliminating SMP completely, the ideal situation is to
reduce the quantity, which is what is occurring at Kroger Bakeries,
corporate food division, located in Cincinnati.
“We started reducing the levels [of SMP] in our cakes last
October. We’ve reduced it about 12 percent,” says Joel
Payne, senior scientist, corporate food technology.
“We’re planning to reduce it further, but we
don’t know how far we can go before running into performance
issues. So far, we haven’t run into any. When we do, we will
stop and back up a little.”
Payne says the SMP reduction is strictly for cost containment.
Kroger is not replacing SMP with another ingredient and does not
plan to, he adds. Since the SMP reductions have not resulted in any
changes of product quality, Payne believes the original formula
amounts were too high.
“We’ll probably wind up at about a third of our original level in our cakes. Cakes represent a good 80 percent of our milk product usage,” Payne says.
Reduction is a simple cost solution, but what if your goal is to
remove allergens or adapt to a new health trend, such as creating a
full line of vegan or kosher products? Then, you may need to turn
to other ingredients, such as whey or soy, to help maintain product
quality while eliminating SMP.
Milk replacements to consider
Whey protein concentrate (WPC) is one option for replacing milk
products. It is a good source of protein and delivers many of the
same functionalities at a lower cost.
“In some cases whey protein can increase the benefits of texture, shelf life, product structure, color and flavor,” says Grace Harris, manager, applications and business development for Hilmar Ingredients, Hilmar, Calif. “We are continually working with bakers to help them take advantage of new formulas using whey products.”
Since whey is a dairy product derivative, the allergen issue often arises. However, specially formulated whey proteins can actually help consumers avoid the symptoms of milk allergies and lactose intolerance. Gwen Bargetzi, Hilmar’s director of marketing, says most people with milk allergies, including infants, can safely consume whey protein hydrolysate because the proteins have been broken into smaller peptides that do not stimulate an immune reaction. Similarly, because whey protein isolate contains less than 0.1 gram of lactose per tablespoon, most people with lactose intolerance can consume these products without difficulty.
Another option for SMP replacement is soy, and ADM Ingredients, Decatur, Ill., offers a special bakery platform group that helps bakers create new formulations using soy products.
“Enzyme inactive soy flour matches the nutrition of a milk product,” says Charlie Morris, manager, dry sweetener research, ADM. “It is a balanced protein with all nine essential amino acids. Casein, a milk protein, which we use as the comparison standard, (as listed on the FDA Protein Efficiency Ratio), is rated at 2.5 while soy flour is rated at 2.2.”
Morris notes several additional key characteristics make soy flour virtually interchangeable with milk products. Milk lactose is a reducing sugar that aids in browning. Soy flour has up to 6 percent non-fermentable reducing sugars that work similarly. Milk products also offer absorption, which increases shelf-life and keeps products moist. Soy flour also increases absorption. “Using 80 percent soy flour and 20 percent sweet whey would be as close to seamless SMP replacement as you could get–and at a much lower cost. Plus, soy now offers substantial health claims,” Morris says.
Soy is one of the main allergens that must be on any ingredient
list, although it is not as dynamic as the others, Morris
adds.
Natural Ovens Bakery, Manitowoc, Wis., well-known for healthful
products, eliminated all dairy ingredients from its wide offering
of baked products. Glen Hietpas, vice president of operations, says
this was a directive of the founder, Paul Stitt, who believes many
people are sensitive or allergic to dairy products and do not
realize it.
“We have recently formulated a few breads using soy milk
powder instead of SMP,” Hietpas says. “So many good
bread recipes call for milk powder. We went with soy because
it’s a great emulsifier. We were worried about allergens, but
that issue has never come up. Actually, one of our breads
containing soy is our top seller now.”
Balancing formulation with flavor
Edlong Dairy Flavors, Elk Grove Village, Ill., offers a variety of
concentrated dairy flavors, including a product line that is not
derived from a dairy source. The new Vision™ line provides a
full range of flavor profiles, including milk, cream, butter,
buttermilk, cheeses–all with true dairy flavor, but without
the problems associated with dairy allergens.
“Our products are highly concentrated and provide the flavor
boost needed in products that are reformulated. Mouthfeel flavors
work very well in bakery products that need the richness provided
by milk fat or other lipids in formulations,” says Laura
Vega, vice president, technical solutions.
Edlong also has a sweet dairy flavor line that Anand Rao,
director of technical sales, says is suitable for the fillings and
icings used in the baking industry. “Our heavy cream
replacement system provides an economical alternative to whipped
toppings/fillings or bakery products that contain a significant
amount of cream or high amounts of milk fat,” he says.
Edlong also works with bakers in developing full formulations.
“We can build a base that will simulate the mouthfeel and
functionality of the original product,” says Laura Hartnett,
technical solutions manager. “After we get the functionality
down, we’ll panel both products and profile the original
against our version. Then we work with our flavors to bridge the
gap between the two products.”
A matter of choice
Choices abound for any baker who wants to reduce or completely
replace SMP in their products. It all depends on what you are
looking to achieve and why. Remove lactose, go vegan, go
kosher–or just save money–the goal is your
own.
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